logitech x-540 wired remote

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logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby HACKER_in_rural_AK » May 9th, 2011, 3:49 pm

a friend of mine has recently given me a logitech x-540 pc speaker system and the wired remote for the amp has been cut off :(
i have dug around the net and found a few pics of it and im going to set out and build a replacement
Image
Image
just need a bit of help reverse engineering the pics of the circuit board.
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby k-ww » May 9th, 2011, 3:54 pm

flipside photos always help - my x-ray vision dosn't work over the net .
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby HACKER_in_rural_AK » May 9th, 2011, 4:00 pm

i will try to find some flipside pics. been digging around the net and pics are a little scarce.
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby k-ww » May 9th, 2011, 4:20 pm

Doing a google search, I found that for warranty purposes, they have you cut off the remote and send it to them so you don't ship the whole thing back [saves on shipping costs and make it worthless] - I strongly suspect that unit is fried in some fashion, and not worth fixing [pull the amp apart and look for bulging caps and/or fried resistors.
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby HACKER_in_rural_AK » May 9th, 2011, 4:52 pm

i pulled the amp out of the sub box and removed the aluminium shroud and all the caps are fine and there is no visual indication of fried ICs or resistors. also the fuse is still good.

i have been unable to find any more pics, diagrams etc. of any kind
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby brezeeger » October 14th, 2013, 6:22 pm

Hello,
I'm in a similar predicament. My house was robbed, and they saw Logitech and freaked out. They ripped the controller off and left it on the ground. The picture is very helpful, but I'm looking for a few clarifications as Logitech support is useless beyond, "Let us help you. Buy more of our products."

There are two red wires (one with a black stripe) and two black wires (one is thicker). Not sure which is which.

If you remember or could take a quick look in your box to clarify? It's only 4 combinations to try (much better than 40 million!) so I'm not too worried, but putting in a (wrong) power source in the wrong spot can fry stuff - though looking at the PCB, I'm not sure what. Seems to be all analog except the LED's.

Regardless, if you can provide any other assistance, that would be awesome and my thanks in advance!

~b
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Re: logitech x-540 wired remote

Postby brezeeger » November 28th, 2013, 3:02 am

To answer my own question.

I ended up cutting the wires about an inch down and stripped a few inches of insulation off to get the wires uniform, which actually cleared things up quite a bit. There is another set of wires insulated within the cord. That set was wrapped in insulation, paper, and stranded wire, which turns out to be the thicker black wire (they just cut part of it and wrapped a bit of it in insulation) and fits nicely in the only large hole for the PCB. I'm guessing that was probably the ground for the signal wires, which was what was inside. I already forgot the colors exactly, but there was definitely a red wire in that cluster. This inner set allowed differentiation between the black wires, and the red wires. One red wire was signal, and would then be routed to the headphone jack to power that even if the speakers are turned off. The other red(black stripe I believe) wire would then be the main power source, and it makes sense for that to go to the variable resistor (main sound control dial), so then it would provide power and a maximum voltage/signal value for the speakers, so just follow the PCB wiring to differentiate between power and signal red wires.

So going Left to right as viewed from the image.

blue, yellow/tan, black (or the wire sheathing around the signal wires - I used the insulation I cut off the cord for make-shift wire insulation), green, grey, brown, skip hole, white, red, black, red, purple.

Also, ironically, my speaker system used to occasionally pulse in volume/intensity every once in awhile. That doesn't seem to happen anymore. 8-)

Finally, some connections seem absolutely useless. They go to resistors that don't exist on the controller. My best guess is they used the same controller for a 7.1 system, but simply removed the two resistors to restrict the signal to only 5.1. It'd be interesting to take the sub apart and see if it can be semi-easily "upgraded" in a rather ad-hoc way.
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