GaspingSpark wrote:This is a common problem with automotive audio. You need a "ground loop isolator." You can buy them pre-made. Or build one into your project yourself using a couple of audio isolation transformers.
Search your favorite electronics supplier for a "1:1 audio isolation transformer." You would need two - one for each channel.
If you live near a RadioShack, they *might* have them in the store. The part number is 273-1374. They are out of stock online.
https://www.radioshack.com/product/inde ... Id=2103994
It looks like only the Radio Shacks in the middle of nowhere have the part around here. Odd right?
I was thinking I could probably achieve the same effect using the old tape head and the head out of my old tape adapter. At least until the parts come in.
think there's any chance I could salvage one from an old landline phone?
st2000 wrote:I did something similar inserting an iPod adapter into into two different car radios. I created a pre-amp-radio output and a axillary input where non existed before (i.e. connecting these together makes the radio work as always while plugging the an iPod adapter into the axillary input allows for playing music). All I did was add 1 uF (maybe it was more) caps to all the inputs and outputs to isolate the DC components of the audio devices. That worked for both types of radios in two different cars.
GaspingSpark wrote: The ones used in phones may not have good response over 4khz since that is where the cutoff for the phone line is. The ones in dial-up modems are said to have better frequency response.
redrocketwestie wrote:Sorry to resurrect this topic after 3 weeks, but I was wondering if you could elaborate on how you tricked your tape deck. I'm working on a similar project and I'm stuck trying to figure out what signals the stereo is expecting in the absence of documentation. Right now, everything I've tried just makes it throw errors.
It's not the same model, but even a general step in the right direction would be great.
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